Uniqlo, Fast Retailing looking overseas to China, US

November 8, 2007
By Ken Worsley


A few weeks back, Fast Retailing, the operator of the Uniqlo brand of casual clothing, posted an 8% fall in operating profit for the year ending August 2007. The company, however, has forecasted a 12% rise in sales for the current year.

In October, Fast Retailing saw a 4.2% rise in comps (same store sales figures) over the same month last year. This was the first increase in six months. The firm also announced that the number of visitors to its 637 stores increased by 5.6 percent, a figure that also showed its first rise in six months.

Fast Retailing, however, knows that domestic sales cannot grow forever, not with a declining population and shrinking market. In a recent article in the International Herald Tribune, Tiger Pan Ning, senior vice president and managing director of Uniqlo Hong Kong, put it simply:

Sales growth in Japan is very limited as the population is shrinking. The group is shifting focus to Asia, especially to China, as the booming middle class is driving up spending.

The plan is to open 200 shops in China and Hong Kong, with 80% on the mainland. There are currently five Uniqlo stores located in Hong Kong and ten in mainland China.

At the same time, the firm is still looking to crack the US market. Although the firm failed to make a successful bid for Barneys New York this past summer, it is still seeking to gain a foothold in the US through an acquisition. President Tadashi Yanai told the Financial Times:

The US is a difficult market. But (the Uniqlo flagship store in) New York is going well and there is enormous potential in the US…It is very difficult for us to go to the US and be successful. We are looking to buy a US company and they would help us build a platform.

If successful, Uniqlo will be a groundbreaker indeed, and perhaps establish a trend of Japanese retailers making renewed efforts to build their brands and sell their goods directly overseas, whether it be the US, Europe or China. One is forced to wonder what may happen if Uniqlo is not successful, and what effect that may have on other brands watching to see if a Japanese retailer can catch on overseas in the way US and European retailers have done in Asia. One thing is certain: Tiger Nan Ping knows that a lot of domestic-minded Japanese firms are operating on borrowed time.

Comments

4 Responses to “Uniqlo, Fast Retailing looking overseas to China, US”

  1. Jim D on November 8th, 2007 7:02 am

    When Uniqlo tried to break into the UK retailing scene 6 or 7 years ago they
    announced that they were go revolutionize the high street and give all the major players a run for their money. Unfortunately, I did not warm to such arrogance and sales were sluggish resulting in ‘flagship’ stores being closed. I hope that Fast Retailing has learned some lessons if they are now pushing into the US. Simply parachuting what has worked in Japan into another country might backfire again. Having said all that, Ido like Unqlo’s jerseywear, I should stock up before winter sets in.

  2. Ken Worsley on November 8th, 2007 7:48 pm

    I didn’t write it in the article, but flagships in London and Paris are set to open in the next two months.

    I’m guessing they’ll be along the lines of the NYC joint.

  3. JMeister on November 8th, 2007 9:09 pm

    Yanai is a multi-billionaire, one of the richest people
    in the world. What the hell does he care if Uniqlo
    gets international recognition or not? Didn’t they open
    a store in NY and it flopped?

  4. Mking on November 12th, 2007 5:54 pm

    Sales growth in Japan is very limited as the population is shrinking.

    If people are getting smaller, using less fabric would save money, right?

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